Fishing rods explained

By Robert Thornton

In our last blog we looked atfishing reels, and I hope it helped you gain an understanding of why there are different reels, and which one is best for your fishing needs. Now we’re going to do the same with rods!

Rods are a similarly complex and equally important part of the puzzle, playing a vital role in virtually all the mechanical aspects of fishing. In this blog, we’re going to look at rod history, some important terminology, the different types of rods and their uses, as well as some basic maintenance tips.

HOT RODS

It’ll come as no surprise that fishing rods as a concept have been around for millennia. Humans have been using long pieces of wood, grass and animal bones to deliver baits and lures to fish since before we began keeping records. We know that bamboo rods were used widely in Asia for centuries, however the advent of reels has seen fishing rods evolve into something we recognise, with a tapered design, runners or guides for guiding the line, and a reel seat for attaching a reel.

Early modern rod builders used a variety of materials, however the best early rods were made from split bamboo cane, with several splintered pieces joined together, offering more length and flexibility.

As effective as split cane rods were, they weren’t viable for mass production, and so fibreglass became the favoured material in the 20th century. Fibreglass rods are still used widely today!

In the 1970s, graphite entered the picture, offering an even lighter and more sensitive option for rod blanks, and this quickly became a staple for lure anglers. There have been experiments done with other materials, such as boron and carbon fibre, however these days fibreglass and graphite are the mainstays in the fishing rod world.

TERMINOLOGY

There are a few bits of terminology worth learning if you want to understand rods. These key concepts will give you a much better foundation when it comes to buying a rod from a tackle store, allowing you to articulate exactly what you need.

Rod action/taper

The action and taper of the rod are different things, however there is so much overlap that they are often used interchangeably. Both are measured on a fast/medium/slow scale.

A rod that bends mostly near the tip when under load has a fast action, whereas one that bends along the length of the rod has a slower action. The action can also refer to the rate of recovery (basically, if you ‘twang’ the tip, how fast or slow does it recover?)

In terms of taper, a fast taper is one where there is a big difference in thickness between the tip and the butt, which will almost always result in a fast action and rate of recovery. Similarly, if there is less difference between the tip and the butt, the taper is slow, and will usually have a slow action and rate of recovery.

Line rating

Virtually all rods will have a line rating, usually indicated somewhere on the butt end of the blank. This is a line recommendation and is calculated based on the maximum load of the rod. You can run line below or above the line rating, as I often do, but keep in mind that a rod will generally perform best when paired with a line within its line rating.

Line ratings can be expressed in pounds (4-8lb), kilograms (2-4kg), or sometimes ‘PE’, which is a Japanese braided line metric (measuring the line’s diameter) from no. 1-8.

WHAT FISHING ROD DO I NEED?

Now we’ll look at some of the different materials rods are made from and why. There are other rod types, however these are the most common and between them can cover just about any situation. Hopefully this basic guide gives you some idea of the style of rod you need for your fishing.

Fibreglass rods

Fibreglass has been used to make rods for a long time, and today it still has a multitude of uses. Fibreglass is a fantastic material for rod building, as it’s extremely tough and shock resistant while still being very flexible.

Fibreglass rods generally have a slower action, and it’s for this reason that they are favoured for bait fishing. Whether using a 14ft surf rod off the beach or a whippy 6ft stick in a creek, a fibreglass rod will ensure plenty of shock absorbance when fighting fish and give any biters plenty of room to take the bait. Fibreglass rods are often used with monofilament line to accentuate the shock absorbance.

Where they don’t shine is with lures; the stretchy properties of fibreglass paired with mono make it hard to stay in direct contact with the lure. A wobbly rod also makes casting with any degree of control and accuracy very hard.

Graphite rods

Graphite is perhaps the most widely used material for rods these days, and while it has some drawbacks, they are more than worth tolerating for the advantages it offers.

Graphite is very light compared to fibreglass, and often makes a stiffer, faster action in the rod. These properties make it ideal for lure fishing, with the lighter construction lending itself to repetitive casting, and the faster action delivering more control and accuracy when casting, and more feedback when working a lure.

Graphite rods are often used with braided line to reduce stretch, however they can also be used with monofilament. Generally speaking, any serious lure fishing should be done with a graphite rod.

Weaknesses include its fragility compared to fibreglass, so care must be taken when putting them down or leaning them against things. You should also try to avoid or minimise collisions between the lure and the rod blank to prevent breakages or creating weak points.

Another thing to avoid is bending them too far. While all rods are made to bend, I like to make sure my graphite rods don’t bend past a parabolic curve. In other words, when the rod is bent over, make sure the rod butt and the tip don’t go beyond parallel. Lower rod angles that utilise the power of the butt section are far more effective when fighting fish with graphite.

Composite rods

There are rods made from amix of graphite and fibreglass, with some models even having a completely solid fibreglass tip section. They don’t necessarily offer the best of both worlds, but they certainly have their uses and are worth mentioning.

Composite rods are usually inexpensive, making them attractive for newcomers, and can be used for a range of techniques, which is perfect for someone just dipping their toes in. Rod actions in composites can vary wildly, but generally tend to be on the slower side.

The versatility they offer is also one of their biggest weaknesses. What I mean by this is that composite rods can be used for a lot of things, however they are far from the ideal tool for most of them.

MAINTAINENCE TIPS 

It’s not hard to keep rods in good condition for years and years, and I promise that if you follow these simple steps, you won’t be constantly having to replace them.

Firstly, always store them so they are straight, not bent. Fibreglass rods in particular (but also other rods) can develop a permeant bend if stored carelessly, so when not in use, they should be unrigged and placed vertically or supported along the blank if at any other angle.  

Secondly, when hooking lures or hooks to rod guides (if the rod doesn’t have a hook keeper), always use the guide frame, not the insert. Doing the latter will put unnecessary strain on the bindings, and potentially open up cracks in the glue where saltwater can get in.

Thirdly, always wash down thoroughly after saltwater use. Pay particular attention to the guides, and if any small cracks start to appear around the feet of the guides, make sure to give these areas a good soaking. I usually air dry my rods, however if you want to go a step further you can dry them with a tea towel or paper towel; but be gentle when drying around the guides!

Lastly, I can’t recommend rod socks enough, especially when travelling. Fortunately, some Daiwa rods come with rod socks, however they can be found at most tackle shops as well. These great inventions protect rod guides from chips and bumps during the ride and can save you a lot of money in the long run.

USE THE ROD, CATCH THE FISH

As you can see, there is more to fishing rods than meets the eye, but once you know the basics, it’s much easier to find one to suit your needs. The right rod can really make a difference to your fishing, whether you’re droning out large baits for jewfish on the beach, tossing stickbaits for GTs over the reef, or flicking teeny spinners for trout in a mountain trickle.

There really is a fishing rod for any fish in any situation – the trick is knowing which one’s right for the job!